Openhand Press
Training Log — Apr 13 to Jul 13
Cycle
Apr to Jul 2026
Spring / Outdoor Season / Heel Hook Phase
Goals
- Build a consistent routine while climbing outdoors more
- Increase time on real rock without losing strength
- Improve heel hook strength and control
- Maintain grip strength on the Hand of God tools
- Train with enough volume to allow steady improvement
Method
This phase keeps the routine from the previous cycle, but the off-the-wall work is more intentional.
Grip training stays the same. The Hand of God Micro and Crusher are easy to stay consistent with and carry over well to board climbing.
Supplementary work is divided into Group A and Group B, done twice per week. Exercises are selected to support heel hook strength, hip tension, and posterior chain control.
Outdoor climbing has priority this cycle. If I climb outside, that replaces whatever training session was planned for that day.
Work schedule is 8 to 4 on weekdays, so most sessions are done in the evening. Weekends are kept open for outdoor climbing.
Volume will be adjusted based on recovery and rate of improvement.
Weekly Structure
Typical week when climbing indoors:
Monday
Limit board session
Grip
Group A
Tuesday
Rest or mobility
Wednesday
Board or gym session
Grip
Group B
Thursday
Rest or mobility
Friday
Limit board session
Grip
Group A or B
Saturday
Outdoor climbing or gym session
Sunday
Outdoor climbing or rest
If outdoor conditions are good, outdoor climbing replaces whatever session was planned.
Supplementary work can be skipped if needed to allow recovery for outdoor days.
Off the Wall
Grip
- Hand of God Micro
- Hand of God Crusher
Grip is done after climbing sessions. Grip is not done before climbing.
Frequency depends on recovery, but usually two to three times per week.
Group A
Focus on heel hook retention and core tension.
- Copenhagen plank
- Single-leg heel hook isometric
- High box step-up
- External shoulder rotation
Controlled positions. Long holds. No rushing reps.
Done twice per week when recovery allows.
Group B
Focus on posterior chain strength and finishing power in heel hooks.
- Sliding hamstring curl
- Heel hook isometric holds
- Glute bridge variation
- External shoulder rotation
Emphasis on hamstrings and hip extension.
Done twice per week when recovery allows.
Mobility
Mobility is included three times per week.
Focus is on positions that carry over to heel hooks and high feet.
- 90 / 90
- Elevated pigeon
- Deep lunge with posterior pelvic tilt
- Deep squat hold
- Hip flexor lift-offs
Mobility is done after sessions or on rest days.
The goal is better positions, not general flexibility.
On the Wall
Outdoor climbing has priority this cycle.
Board climbing stays in the week, but it is not the centre of the phase.
Two sessions per week are usually limit climbing on boards.
Boards used:
- Moonboard 2016
- Tension Board 2
- Kilterboard
- Moonboard 2024
Moonboard 2016 is still the default when training indoors.
Outdoor sessions replace indoor sessions whenever possible.
Skin management is less restrictive than in winter, but still considered when planning sessions.
Projecting Rules
- Rest roughly one minute per move done
- Limit attempts per problem
- Stop when attempts lose quality
Not every session needs to be maximal.
More total time climbing is the goal this phase.
Notes
This phase is built around climbing more outside without losing strength.
Supplementary work is kept simple so that it can be done consistently after work.
Heel hook strength is the main off-the-wall focus. Grip strength is maintained.
Outdoor climbing determines the week, not the program.